Unlike most solo designer shows during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the Academy of Art runway presentation in the theater at Lincoln Center was a multi-act compilation of the ideas and inspirations of eight student designers. Numerous perspectives came together to create a comprehensive and mostly cohesive collection.
The menswear and womens wear presented ran the gamut from contemporary athletic wear to sophisticated evening wear. While many of the ensembles seemed to reverberate memories of designer offerings from seasons past (like a hybrid of Francisco Costa era CKC and Calvin Klein era CKC) there was still a great deal of merit and ingenuity in several outstanding pieces. One piece in particular, a multi-tiered sculptural women swear blazer, engrained itself firmly into my hippocampus. The impeccable construction and petal-like hems felt fresh and effortless; definitely a wardrobe staple that’s anything but basic. There were several menswear pieces that stood apart but my personal must-have item was a beautifully tailored oxblood and tobacco glen plaid jacket trimmed in red nylon by David Doerr. Classic yet somehow modern at the same time, this jacket flirted with flamboyance yet remained inherently masculine. Mr. Doerr understands that modern men are akin to peacocks and like our avian brethren it’s necessary to show off a little plumage from time to time.
The most prominent theme throughout the production was a penchant for exaggerated architectural construction contrasted by thoughtful instances of fluidity and draping. In a similar juxtaposition, the mostly neutral and washed pastel color palette was artfully punctuated by primaries like cherry and cobalt. Uniquely, the Italian Trade Commission contributed fabric and trims from some of Italy’s premier mills allowing the designers the opportunity to create sculptural masterworks with the finest goods money can buy. The combination of these elements resulted in a luxe yet relatable assortment imbued with enough versatility to satiate most appetites.
