New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: Ruffian

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As the press note for this A/W season’s Ruffian collection “Concerto For Two”, I could not help but think of a beautiful collection whose composition, reflects the carefully comprised notes of Ravel’s Bolero or Beethoven’s Symphony 9. As my imagination ran free, the lights dimmed and the Iphones were in command for runway shots. If the dandy didn’t inspire the Ruffian duo’s F/W collection, I really do not know what did.  This season’s Ruffian collection relied on strong tailoring, as the cornerstones of their beautiful collection. With Victorian influences, and strong masculine cuts provided the majority of the collection, Brian Wolk and Claude Morais highlighted their incredible sartorial skill and incredible eye for detail. From the collection to the concerto piece that played as the audience and I began to take our seats, the Ruffian A/W 2012 collection was truly a work of craftsmanship and tailored for the beautiful and innovative style of Wolk and Marais.

The collection seemed highly influenced by menswear and bespoke tailoring, reminiscent of Savile Row. The collection does not seem to dance between the line between masculine and femininity, but in turn creates its own space where sexuality is not defined by the woman, but by the clothing leaving classic and simplistic tailoring the guide of “sex” for this collection. As a product of the duo’s trip to England and their “viewing of bronze sculptures of Henry Moore set against the backdrop of English estates” the collection definitely strikes a cord on the English composition, where sharp tailoring defines the line’s beauty. Jackets of plaid metallic or neutral were the highlight of the collection as well skirt suits which appeared to be of “army notation” (who said women were not made for war). Each piece provided a lineated look, which the silhouette of the body then claims and creates truly pleasing collaboration.

All in all “razor sharp tailoring” is one of many consistent features of the Ruffian fashion house. The need for detail, intricacy and precision is what makes the duo’s work timeless and flawless. I loved the collection’s deviation from an intense conceptual idea, in turn allowing their inspiration to drive the collection’s brilliance. Aesthetically pleasing, visuals are seriously needed. Thank God the Kitty Bradshaw allows photos….



  1. Ashlee says

    Not the biggest fan of the collection but it sure is different. Nice that a desginer is allowing females some wiggle room in the way we dress

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