MBNYFW: ROCHAMBEAU Fall/Winter 2012

 

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“It’s about the juxtaposition of a man who cares deeply about clothes but once he is wearing something he completely forgets about it as it fuses with his natural self.” Spoken by Rochambeau creators Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler, these words personify the essence of the line.

For Fall/Winter 2012, The Box at Lincoln Center was transformed into a seasonally appropriate, garden-like landscape with remnants of a fertile summer strewn about the ceiling and ground. Low hanging branches and mulch covered floors helped to create the perfect environment for the unaffected, precisely tailored menswear being shown.

As a lover of both the traditional and avant-garde disciplines of fashion, this collection was an ideal sampling of the best of both worlds. The presentation featured billowy, wide leg pants and strategically draped vests and blazers with collapsed lapels. Conversely, slimly cut slacks, some with a deep pleat/seam combination detail that left me just a little giddy by its understated sophistication, were complemented by sleek outwear with razor sharp lines and bias seam detailing. The texturally rich, lightweight layers were executed in a tightly controlled palette of black, white, gray, burgundy and plum; an ideal evocation of the season and inspiration from which the line was derived. The use of natural fibers, woven wool, fur and leather were obvious nods to the mythological and primitive folklore roots that spurned the collection but while the starting point of this collection began may have been based in antiquity, the end result is something thoroughly modern and forward thinking in the realm of menswear.

Author: Tré Roberts

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