Giovanna Randall, the designer steering the ship at Honor, reached back to the idealized aesthetic of 1950’s Americana for spring 2012.
For fall 2011, Randall reveled in the minimalism and glamour of the 1970’s; this season it seems that the stylishly repressed ladies of Mad Men might have played an integral role in her creative process. In actuality, the collection was inspired by a screen capture of Catherine Deneuve on her wedding day in the film Le Vice et la Vertu.
The show opened with a dress made of the sheerest chiffon being lofted about the model by strategically placed wind machines à la Marilyn Monroe in The Seven Year Itch. The audience responded in kind with hushed oohs and aahs while the black and white polka-dot dirndl billowed. The form-fitting bodice and full flounce skirt set the tone for what would ultimately be the
most common theme throughout the show. While the silhouettes stayed true to the era, the classic style was updated by the addition of matte sequins, sheer overlays, intricate construction and minute details. Although it felt as though I was viewing all too familiar garments through fresh eyes in the beginning, it wasn’t long before what was once new threatened to become trite. The subtle color, fabric and detail variations proved to be too insignificant to make each piece seem special or worthwhile. However, one detail that managed to grab my attention was the sculpted neckline prevalent on many of the dresses. For me, the sharp lines and creative use of negative space to create non-existent, oversized peter pan collars made the pieces more than just an exercise in classic garment construction and embellishment.
Femininity, fluidity and restraint best describe the overall voice of this collection but just like the women’s lib movement in the late 50’s, Randall began to show signs of rebellion. The introduction of rose, fuchsia, and lemon-eggplant plaid were
successful in imbuing a little diversity in the otherwise neutrals heavy color palette. While the pinks were a much-needed addition, the plaids seemed disjointed and out-of-place within the larger picture.
This was Giovanna’s third professional showing and only her first at Lincoln Center. Her youthful approach and delicate handling of fabric speaks volumes about her potential. Celebrity fans Tracee Ellis Ross, Malin Ackerman and Solange Knowles, all seated front and center for the show, are a strong indication that Honor is definitely one to watch.
Alice December 30, 2011
I think the collection was far from trite. The cutouts and the sheer backs, the lighter then air movement of the fabrics, and the overlays were done with such a delicate balance, and are quietly sexy. The fabrics were exquisite. It was a collection of movement and subtle color with punches of bold tailored and tough looks. I like that juxtaposition, as it paints a whole women not just one side of a women. Soft to strong, sexy to serious. Geometric to flowing. Really well done.